Flavorful Kebabs, Biryani and Much More: An Indian Metropolis Earns a Spot on UNESCO's Culinary List.
Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.